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Song Wat is one of the oldest trading streets in Bangkok. It runs along the Chao Phraya River at the edge of Chinatown, and for more than a century it smelled of spices, dried goods and the river. Today the old shophouses hold cafés, galleries and small studios next to the traders who never left. Here is how to spend an easy afternoon there.
A short history of Song Wat Road
Song Wat Road was built in the reign of King Rama V, after a great fire in nearby Sampeng, to give the crowded trading district more room. As the story goes, the name comes from the king himself, who drew the line of the road by hand. “Song Wat” means “drawn by the king”.
For generations it was where Thai and Chinese merchants traded tea, herbs, spices, cloth and imported goods, with riverside warehouses taking cargo straight off the boats. Many of the Chinese style shophouses and wooden warehouses, more than a century old, are still standing.
How do I get to Song Wat Road?
Take the MRT Blue Line to Wat Mangkon station and leave by Exit 3. From there it is about a 10 minute walk down to Song Wat Road. If you come by river, the Ratchawong pier is close by.
Driving is harder, because the street is narrow and busy with deliveries in the morning. There are two or three paid car parks along Song Wat Road. The cheapest is usually at Wat Pathum Khongkha, a short walk further along.
When is the best time to visit?
Come in the afternoon. In the morning the street is still working, with trucks loading and unloading. After lunch it slows down, the light turns warm on the shophouse fronts and the cafés fill up. Some shops and cafés close in the early evening, so come early enough to enjoy them.
What is there to do on Song Wat?
Walk slowly and look up. The best thing about Song Wat is the street itself.
- Old shophouses and warehouses, many with their original wooden shutters and painted signs
- Street art on the side walls, which makes Song Wat a favourite photo walk
- Small cafés and galleries inside restored buildings
- Traditional traders selling spices, seeds and dried goods, as they have for generations
- Glimpses of the river between the buildings
Song Wat also connects easily to the rest of old Bangkok. Yaowarat, Sampeng Lane and Talat Noi are all within walking distance.
What does Song Wat smell like?
Walk the street and you will notice it has a scent of its own. Cinnamon and star anise from the spice shops, dried tea, old wood, rain on the river. We bottled one day on this road as Songwat 5, five Eau de Parfum.
- Afternoon Habit, three in the afternoon in a café, when staying is easier than leaving
- First Departure, stepping back out into the street, green tea and earth
- Second Eiffel, rain on old windows and incense from a doorway
- Velvet Afterdark, the street at night, one window still glowing
- Fading Distance, first light on the river before the city wakes
To take all five home, the Songwat 5 Set holds each one in a 3ml vial for 990 THB. It is the most Song Wat souvenir we make.
Where can I smell Songwat 5?
Our shop sits at 981/5 Song Wat Road, in front of Luang Kocha Mosque, the old mosque on the street.
Every scent is on testers in the shop, so you can smell all twelve before you choose. We are open every day from 11:00 to 19:00, and we take Alipay, WeChat Pay and cards. We do not take cash.
See the map and shop details or read the Songwat 5 stories.
Good to know
- Wear comfortable shoes. The pavements are narrow and uneven in places.
- Bring water. The street gets hot in the afternoon, and shade comes and goes.
- Be kind with your camera. Song Wat is still a working street and people live here.
